A Rhine River Adventure à la Tauck
The Rhine River. It's a name that conjures images of castles perched on cliffs, quaint villages brimming with charm, and, of course, wine — lots of wine. My week aboard Tauck's MS Esprit, cruising from Brussels to Basel, was everything I’d imagined and then some. Add in stops across five countries—Belgium, the Netherlands, Germany, France, and Switzerland—and you’ve got the kind of trip that has travel brochures quivering with envy.
Day One: Beginnings in Brussels
The journey began with a six-hour overnight flight from Newark to Brussels. Six hours in a metal tube at 35,000 feet is never anyone’s idea of luxury, but the early arrival, combined with the lengthy and soul-sapping line at passport control, made me question my life choices briefly. Thankfully, a Tauck representative was waiting just beyond the chaos, holding up a sign so large and obvious that even Mr. Magoo couldn’t have missed it.
Soon, we were whisked away in a shiny black Mercedes, which deposited us at the docked MS Esprit. Although it was still morning and well before the official check-in time, Tauck had thoughtfully opened the Panorama Lounge for weary travelers like me to collapse, caffeinate, and nibble while the ship’s crew worked their magic.
And then it happened—that glorious moment when I stepped into my cabin. After the ordeal of modern air travel, walking into a suite that would be my home for the week felt akin to arriving at the pearly gates. Spacious, serene, and blessedly still, the cabin was a haven.
Day Two: Antwerp Awaits
The Esprit began her journey southward, pausing at Antwerp. The schedule offered walking tours in both Brussels and Antwerp—a smorgasbord of history and sightseeing, should one have the stamina. I did not. I chose instead to revel in the tranquility of the ship, an indulgence I didn’t regret.
By the time we reached Antwerp, I was rested enough to explore the old town, its narrow streets and golden-hued buildings a testament to centuries of prosperity. The day ended with dinner aboard the Esprit—a nightly affair of culinary delight in the Compass Rose restaurant, where the wine flowed freely, and so did the conversations.
Day Three: Dutch Delights in Gorinchem
We crossed into the Netherlands, docking at Gorinchem, a picturesque town that seemed plucked straight from a fairytale. Here, we were treated to an organ recital in a tiny church hidden away during the Protestant Reformation—a fascinating slice of history delivered with musical accompaniment.
That evening, we took a water taxi to Slot Loevestein, a 14th-century castle on a private island. There, after watching a charming play about a prisoner’s escape (via book crate, naturally), we dined within the castle’s ancient stone walls. It was like stepping into a medieval banquet scene, minus the questionable hygiene of the Middle Ages.
Days Four and Five: Germany Beckons
The Rhine River delivered us to Düsseldorf, where a walking tour of Alstadt (the old town) awaited. The cobblestone streets and beer halls offered a hearty welcome to Germany, though I opted for a more scenic bike ride along the Rhine.
The following day brought the scenic highlight of the trip: the Middle Rhine Valley. Castles sprouted from the cliffs like something out of a Disney storyboard, while the river wound its way through storybook villages. In St. Goar, I again traded walking shoes for a bicycle, pedaling through crisp air and postcard-perfect scenery.
Day Six: Mannheim’s Palatial Pleasures
In Mannheim, we toured the sprawling Mannheim Palace, a Baroque marvel second only to Versailles in size and grandeur. All Saints’ Day meant most shops were closed, lending the town a sleepy charm. The palace itself was a revelation—ornate, gilded, and so absurdly large it could probably house a small country.
Day Seven: Strasbourg, a City with Dual Citizenship
Strasbourg was a feast for the senses. The cathedral alone was worth the trip—a towering Gothic masterpiece surrounded by bustling markets and lively streets. A tasting tour introduced us to local Alsatian delicacies, while others opted for a bike ride or a more leisurely walking tour. By nightfall, we sailed into Basel, Switzerland, our final port of call.
Day Eight: Swiss Bliss in Montreux
The river cruise officially ended in Basel, but Tauck wasn’t done with us yet. A motorcoach whisked us to Montreux, where the Fairmont Montreux Palace awaited. The three-night stay was a whirlwind of Swiss delights: a visit to the Lavaux Vineyards for wine tasting, an icy adventure at Glacier 3000, and a deeply moving tour of Charlie Chaplin’s home in nearby Vevey.
The Montreux Palace, with its Belle Époque grandeur and views of Lake Geneva, was stunning. But if I’m honest, it couldn’t quite compete with the MS Esprit. There’s something about unpacking once and floating effortlessly from one magical destination to the next that’s hard to beat.
Reflections on River Cruising
Tauck’s Rhine River Connoisseur is less a vacation and more a masterclass in how to travel well. Every detail, from the seamless transfers to the thoughtfully curated excursions, felt designed to ensure maximum enjoyment with minimal effort. River cruising, I’ve decided, is the ultimate antidote to the chaos of modern travel. And Tauck? They’ve perfected the art.
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